K-beauty inspiration: how to formulate multi-balm

K-beauty has changed the beauty industry in the past decade with its amazing innovations. A multi-use product bringing both hygiene and convenience to a busy modern life is becoming increasingly attractive to Korean consumers.
K- Beauty 在過去十年里以其令人驚嘆的創(chuàng)新改變了美容產(chǎn)業(yè)。這款多功能產(chǎn)品為繁忙的現(xiàn)代生活帶來了衛(wèi)生和便利，對(duì)韓國(guó)消費(fèi)者的吸引力正在日益增強(qiáng)。

Beauty sticks made for multi-purpose use by combining the functions of cream, serum, makeup and even facial mask have quickly become one of the biggest K-beauty trends this year. However, formulating stick products is more challenging than creams and serums. The key attributes that are previously linked to lipsticks, such as stability, firmness and pay-off, now need to be re-evaluated for whole facial applications.
通過結(jié)合面霜、血清、化妝品甚至面膜的多功能美容棒，迅速成為今年最大的 K 美容趨勢(shì)之一。然而，制作美容棒產(chǎn)品比面霜和血清更具挑戰(zhàn)性。以前與口紅相關(guān)的關(guān)鍵屬性，如穩(wěn)定性、堅(jiān)固性和效果，現(xiàn)在需要對(duì)整個(gè)面部應(yīng)用進(jìn)行重新評(píng)估。

The oil components within a stick formulation function as a solvent for the waxes and a carrier for the pigments. “Stick sweating”, the phenomenon which is very familiar to makeup formulators, is usually caused by poor wax solvency which creates a coarse, non-homogenous structure, leading to fine oil droplets on the surface of the stick during small temperature fluctuations or product storage. In very unstable systems, variations such as temperature fluctuation, which is very common in tropical regions, or improper storage, can lead to the stick melting completely.
棒狀配方中的油脂成分作為蠟的溶劑和顏料的載體?；瘖y品配方師非常熟悉的 “棒狀出汗” 現(xiàn)象，通常是由于蠟溶解度低造成的粗糙、不均勻的結(jié)構(gòu)，導(dǎo)致在微小的溫度波動(dòng)或產(chǎn)品儲(chǔ)存過程中棒狀表面出現(xiàn)細(xì)小的油滴。在非常不穩(wěn)定的系統(tǒng)中，溫度波動(dòng) (這在熱帶地區(qū)非常常見) 或儲(chǔ)存不當(dāng)?shù)茸兓赡軐?dǎo)致棒狀物完全融化。

Hectorite based organoclay gels of the BENTONE GEL? series can create a network in the stick’s oil phase, working together with the waxes in the system to promote a fine, homogenous crystalline structure that leads to an increased stick integrity. Unlike the crystalline mechanism of waxes, the gel network is built up via hydrogen bonding formed by the hydroxyl groups on the edges of the organoclay platelet. This network is much more thermo-resilient than the one from waxes, thus the BENTONE GEL? can help to stop the stick system from melting at high temperatures. The stability test shows that the Moisture Boost Serum Stick (F-1012-01) with 10% BENTONE GEL? LC V (INCI: C9-12 Alkane (and) Disteardimonium Hectorite (and) Triethyl Citrate) did not melt when stored at 40°C, while the benchmark formula without BENTONE GEL? partially melted. The prototypes have also been stored in the oven at 50°C, and the result shows that the one without BENTONE GEL? partially melted in an uneven way.
BENTONE GEL? 系列的赫克托石基有機(jī)粘土凝膠可以在棒的油相中形成網(wǎng)絡(luò)，與系統(tǒng)中的蠟相互作用，形成細(xì)小、均勻的晶體結(jié)構(gòu)，從而提高棒的完整性。與蠟的結(jié)晶機(jī)制不同，凝膠網(wǎng)絡(luò)是通過有機(jī)粘土板邊緣的羥基形成的氫鍵建立的。這種網(wǎng)絡(luò)比蠟的網(wǎng)絡(luò)具有更強(qiáng)的耐熱性，因此 BENTONE GEL? 可以幫助防止棒系統(tǒng)在高溫下融化。穩(wěn)定性測(cè)試表明，含有 10% BENTONE GEL? LC V (INCI: C9-12 烷烴 (和) 赫克托石 (和) 檸檬酸三乙酯) 的水分增強(qiáng)血清棒 (F-1012-01) 在 40°C 儲(chǔ)存時(shí)沒有融化，而未含 BENTONE GEL? 的基準(zhǔn)配方部分融化。樣品也在 50°C 下儲(chǔ)存在烤箱中，結(jié)果顯示，未含 BENTONE GEL? 的樣品部分融化的方式不均勻。

Picture 1: Moisture Boost Serum Stick (F-1012-01) with and without 10% BENTONE GEL? LC V stored at 50°C
圖 1: 水分增強(qiáng)血清棒 (F-1012-01), 含有和不含 10% BENTONE GEL? LC V, 儲(chǔ)存在 50°C

Another important aspect of stick application is the firmness. It describes the interaction between the oils and waxes within the formulation and can be controlled by altering the oils or waxes used. Within a formulation, formulators need to carefully select the paste-like materials that can be used to create micro-crystalline or gel-like structures to ensure more elasticity and are less prone to potential breakage. On the other hand, if the stick texture is too hard, it will impact another key attribute – the pay-off. Pay-off is a measure of the amount of product deposited on the skin when applying, and is directly related to the formulation’s wax structure. Pay-off is important to ensure even and thorough covering of area with product, and can be inversely proportional to firmness i.e. the softer formulations provide increased payoff and vice versa. This relationship creates a challenge for formulators – balancing the need for a firm formulation while maintaining a good pay-off, the two fundamental attributes where good performance is expected by the customer.
棒材應(yīng)用的另一個(gè)重要方面是硬度。它描述了配方中油和蠟之間的相互作用，可以通過改變使用的油或蠟來控制。在配方中，配方師需要仔細(xì)選擇類糊狀材料，這些材料可以用來創(chuàng)造微晶體或類凝膠結(jié)構(gòu)，以確保更大的彈性和更少的潛在破壞傾向。另一方面，如果棒材質(zhì)地過硬，它將影響另一個(gè)關(guān)鍵屬性 —— 收益率。收益率是指在應(yīng)用時(shí)產(chǎn)品沉積在皮膚上的量，它與配方的蠟結(jié)構(gòu)直接相關(guān)。收益率對(duì)于確保產(chǎn)品均勻和徹底地覆蓋面積至關(guān)重要，并且可以與硬度成反比，即軟配方提供更高的收益率，反之亦然。這種關(guān)系給配方師帶來了挑戰(zhàn) —— 在平衡企業(yè)配方需求的同時(shí)保持良好的收益率，這是客戶期望良好表現(xiàn)的兩個(gè)基本屬性。

Hectorite based organoclay gels make the stick structure more elastic, and the hydrogen bonding network structure will be fully formed when the product is in the container. When shear is applied, the platelets align flat on the skin, giving a beautiful application. Generally, BENTONE GEL? will make a stick softer, so that a better pay-off on application can be achieved. At the same time, it will give a stick more flexibility, so that it is less prone to breakage.
黑鐵礦基有機(jī)粘土凝膠使棍棒結(jié)構(gòu)更具彈性，當(dāng)產(chǎn)品在容器中時(shí)，氫鍵網(wǎng)絡(luò)結(jié)構(gòu)將完全形成。當(dāng)施加剪切時(shí)，板塊在皮膚上平整對(duì)齊，提供了美觀的應(yīng)用效果。通常，BENTONE GEL? 會(huì)使棍棒更加柔軟，從而在應(yīng)用中獲得更好的回報(bào)。同時(shí)，它將賦予棍棒更大的柔韌性，從而減少其斷裂的可能性。

Picture 2: Hardness vs. flexibility in stick formulas with various BENTONE GEL?s
圖 2: 使用各種 BENTONE GEL? 的棒式公式中的硬度與靈活性

Current beauty sticks have gone beyond skin moisturization only, and more diversified multi-purpose sticks are emerging in the market, such as clay mask stick, sun care stick, highlighter stick, foundation stick and many more. The variety of applications brings more insoluble ingredients like sunscreens, particles, pigments, clays and some actives into the stick, causing more challenges to the formula system.
當(dāng)前的美容棒已經(jīng)不僅僅局限于護(hù)膚保濕，市場(chǎng)上出現(xiàn)了更多樣化的多功能棒，如粘土面膜棒、防曬棒、熒光棒、粉底棒等。多種多樣的應(yīng)用為美容棒帶來了更多不溶性成分，如防曬霜、顆粒物、顏料、粘土和一些活性劑，給配方系統(tǒng)帶來了更多挑戰(zhàn)。

The BENTONE GEL? series offers a unique rheological performance in both single oil systems and the oil phase of an emulsion. The honeycomb like network formed by the gel, often referred to as a house of cards, can help the oil droplets, pigments and other particles to be evenly suspended and stabilized in the system in a much finer texture. The extraordinary suspension performance of BENTONE GEL? leads to a much more uniform and stable stick and ensures replication of the formula performance from batch to batch.
BENTONE GEL? 系列在單一油體系和乳液的油相中都提供了獨(dú)特的流變性能。凝膠形成的蜂窩狀網(wǎng)絡(luò)，通常被稱為紙牌屋，可以幫助油滴、色素和其他顆粒在體系中均勻懸浮和穩(wěn)定，形成更細(xì)膩的紋理。BENTONE GEL? 非凡的懸浮性能導(dǎo)致了更加均勻和穩(wěn)定的棒狀結(jié)構(gòu)，并確保了配方性能在批次間的復(fù)制。

Picture 3: Idealized two-dimensional representation of the network formed by a BENTONE GEL? for stabilizing actives and particles
圖 3:BENTONE GEL? 為穩(wěn)定活性劑和顆粒而形成的網(wǎng)絡(luò)的理想化二維表示

Particularly during the molding process in production, when oils and waxes are still liquid, sedimentation of the particles is of concern. Picture 4 depicts glitter in a stick base, that was put into the mold at 80°C, and without organoclay gel (10% BENTONE GEL? GTCC V), all the glitter sedimented. It is clearly shown that the incorporation of BENTONE GEL? into the stick system will help improve the suspension performance at large.
特別是在生產(chǎn)中的成型過程中，當(dāng)油和蠟仍然是液態(tài)時(shí)，顆粒的沉淀是一個(gè)值得關(guān)注的問題。圖 4 描繪了在 80°C 下放入模具的棒基中的閃光物，如果沒有有機(jī)粘土凝膠 (10% BENTONE GEL? GTCC V), 所有閃光物都會(huì)沉淀。這清楚地表明，將 BENTONE GEL? 添加到棒基系統(tǒng)中將有助于提高整體懸浮性能。

Picture 4: BENTONE GEL? helps to improve the particle suspension in a stick formula
圖 4:BENTONE GEL? 有助于改善棒狀配方中的顆粒懸浮

One extra benefit brought by is the smooth and velvet sensory. Most stick formulas are wax-based, which often leave a greasy feeling when applied to the whole face instead of lips only. Hectorite clay is treated with quaternary ammonium compounds, which cover the hydrophilic surface structure of the clay with organophilic (hydrophobic) material to facilitate the clay to build the network in the oil phase of a system. These so called organoclays demonstrate enhanced skin-feel by masking greasy or tacky components and impart a pleasant residual silkiness to the skin.
附帶的一個(gè)額外好處是光滑和天鵝絨般的感官。大多數(shù)棒狀配方都是基于蠟的，當(dāng)涂抹在整張臉上而不是僅僅涂抹在嘴唇上時(shí)，通常會(huì)留下油膩的感覺。黑曜石粘土經(jīng)過季銨化合物處理，這些化合物用親水 (疏水) 材料覆蓋粘土的親水表面結(jié)構(gòu)，以便于粘土在系統(tǒng)的油相階段構(gòu)建網(wǎng)絡(luò)。這些所謂的有機(jī)粘土通過掩蓋油膩或粘稠的成分，展現(xiàn)出增強(qiáng)的皮膚感覺，并為皮膚帶來一種令人愉悅的殘留絲滑感。

What is hectorite?什么是黑鐵礦？

Hectorite clay, named after the originating area in a location near Hector, California, is an exceptionally pure, non-toxic, non-bioaccumulating, three-layer clay of the smectite family. It is sourced from the world’s purest hectorite mine, near Newberry Springs, California. The hectorite clay was created from volcanic ash by hydrothermal means. The salt beds found in this area in combination with hot springs yielded a unique clay mineral structure that is different to other smectite clays. The extremely efficient swelling capability and network stability of hectorite is due to the uniform charge density distribution, as the clay was built from a quick volcanic eruption; while Bentonite is built from a longer-lasting weathering process with less uniform charge density distribution. The hectorite clay ore is selectively mined using open-pit mining operations, and the wet processing removes impurities to create different grades of hectorite clay. The platelets are remarkably uniform with respect to elemental composition, charge density distribution and charge location. The hydrothermal conditions create platelets with a thin shape, which results in a favorable edge-to-face surface ratio.
黑鐵礦粘土以加利福尼亞州赫克托附近的發(fā)源地命名，是一種特別純凈、無毒、非生物積累的三層蒙脫土家族粘土。它來自世界上最純的黑鐵礦，位于加利福尼亞州紐伯里泉附近。黑鐵礦粘土是通過水熱法從火山灰中形成的。該地區(qū)發(fā)現(xiàn)的鹽層與溫泉相結(jié)合，形成了一種獨(dú)特的粘土礦物結(jié)構(gòu)，與其他蒙脫土粘土不同。黑鐵礦極其高效的膨脹能力和網(wǎng)絡(luò)穩(wěn)定性源于其均勻的電荷密度分布，因?yàn)檎惩潦怯煽焖倩鹕絿姲l(fā)型形成的；而本頓石則是由一個(gè)持續(xù)時(shí)間較長(zhǎng)的風(fēng)化過程形成的，電荷密度分布不太均勻。黑鐵礦粘土礦石采用露天開采作業(yè)進(jìn)行選擇性開采，濕法處理去除雜質(zhì)，形成不同等級(jí)的黑鐵礦粘土。在元素組成、電荷密度分布和電荷位置方面，板塊表現(xiàn)出顯著的均勻性。水熱條件下形成的板塊形狀較薄，這導(dǎo)致了有利的邊面比。

BENTONE GEL? products bring multiple benefits to the oil phase of a formulation while remaining up to 99% naturally derived according to the ISO 16128 standard.
BENTONE GEL? 產(chǎn)品為配方的油相帶來多重益處，同時(shí)根據(jù) ISO 16128 標(biāo)準(zhǔn)保持高達(dá) 99% 的天然來源。